Both nature’s beauty and beastliness conjoin in perfect matrimony at Church Cove, which is part of Gunwalloe Beach. Sitting on Cornwall’s Lizard peninsula, just below Helston and Porthleven and just above Mullion, Gunwalloe Beach, in the parish of the same name, is exposed to the brunt of Atlantic storms, so romance and tragedy abound across this special landscape that is managed and preserved by the National Trust.
Church Cove is twinned with its next-door neighbour, Dollar Cove. In essence, they both make up Gunwalloe Beach. These are places of such contrasting beauty that it’s not hard to see why BBC filmmakers chose this location to film leading star Aiden Turner in a gripping shipwreck scene for ‘Poldark’, the hit TV series aired from 2015. It’s moody, it’s stunning and it’s spectacular. And that’s the reason that people come from far and wide to experience the fine sands and clear waters at Gunwalloe’s Church and Dollar coves.
There’s ample parking in the large National Trust car park next to Church Cove, plus there are toilets and a small café too. The beach itself is idyllic, boasting soft golden sands backed by dunes, reedbeds and sandgrasses that are rich in wildlife. The beach has lifeguards in the summer, is popular with families and is relatively quiet compared to other family-friendly beaches in the area. Dogs are welcome here apart from in July and August.
It’s worth strolling over to St Winwaloe’s Church (also known as the ‘Church of Storms’ due to this moody location) with its bell tower that’s weirdly separate from its main building. It seems almost submerged in the landscape of the headland that separates Church Cove from Dollar Cove. Dollar itself also needs exploring as it was named after the coins that could be found in the waters following shipwrecks on the rocks that had been induced by local ne’er-do-wells lighting fires on the beach. Again, there’s as much tragedy as there is romance in this corner of Cornwall.
Other highlights at Church Cove include its proximity to the Loe Pool attraction that’s a short walk away. Plus, for surfers, the waves can be decent here but swimming can be dangerous. It’s a special area, steeped in stories of storms, smuggling, shipwrecks and silver Spanish coins. It’s utterly beautiful in any weather and it’s well looked after by the NT. With fine sands, rockpools, a stream to paddle in, natural habitats, walks, historical artefacts and more, Church Cove is a must-visit and must-explore.